1. MYTH: The thicker the cream, the better it hydrates.
TRUTH: "Concentrated doesn't necessarily equal optimum hydration," says Annet King, director of training and development for the International Dermal Institute. "An overdose of lipids can actually trap dead cells and leave skin looking duller." King suggests layering serums under creams in order to boost moisture. Facialist Sonia Dakar agrees: "Serums are light, yet have superconcentrated ingredients — ideal for absorption."
2. MYTH: Overcast skies mean you can cut back on sunscreen.
TRUTH: Hardly. As a depleting ozone has led to stronger UVB burning rays, SPF is now a year-round endeavor. And clouds do little to filter out wrinkle-accelerating UVA rays. Come cooler, drier weather, find a daily moisturizer with a broad-spectrum SPF 15 (or higher) to hydrate and protect. "You can enhance your sun protection exponentially by using an antioxidant-rich serum underneath your moisturizer," says Washington, D.C., dermatologist Dr. Cheryl Burgess.
3. MYTH: Oily skin can forgo moisturizer.
TRUTH: Dry, cold climates wear on all skin types, even oily. And without some added protection, barrier function (which keeps pollution and other damaging elements out and moisture in) gets compromised. If your skin is superoily, you can get by with a gel-cream or lotion formula. For true combination skin, use different moisturizers for different areas: a light formula for your T-zone and a richer one for cheeks that get dry, patchy spots.
4. MYTH: Exfoliating in winter exacerbates dry patches.
TRUTH: "The sloughing in fact causes a burst of cell renewal, so you're helping new moisture-rich cells move to the surface," says King. The key in winter is to moisturize thoroughly — occasionally with a hydrating mask — as your skin barrier is weakened after exfoliating. Adds Dakar: "Enzyme-based exfoliants will deliver results in a more gentle way."
5. MYTH: Loading up on lip balms prevents chapping.
TRUTH: Only if it's the right balm. Some common ingredients can actually have an adverse effect. Mineral oil (petroleum jelly) creates an artificial film on your lips, signaling your skin to stop producing lipids, while funky flavors, perfumes, and colors can also dry out skin. King suggests seeking natural-oil-infused balms or those with shea and cocoa butter. "To get rid of flaky patches, apply a little facial exfoliant to damp lips (a soft toothbrush also does the trick), scrub gently, then follow with balm," she says. Wait till spring to resume use of lip plumpers and super-long-lasting formulas that dry out your pout.
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